PCT

SOURCE:NET

if you take a slow relaxed approach, discuss, question and research each component as it’s removed, you’ll learn alot. Read the sections on What’s Inside and What You See, fall back on your own knowledge, use the Internet, your books and resource material. It’s impossible to retain all the information, so one of the most important computer skills you can learn is how to research and use your resources to find what you need. Here’s an example of some questions to think about or discuss as you proceed:

Should I document everything I do or everything I remove?
Am I taking the best ESD precautions available to me right now.
When you remove an expansion card what kind of card is it? What kind of expansion slot did it come from? How many bits wide is that slot? What is the bus speed? What does the card do? If there’s any wires attached to the card, what’s the other end attached to and what are the wires or cables for. What kind of port is on the end of the card?
When removing a drive, what kind of drive is it? Is there information documented right on the drive itself? What kind of power connector does it use? Are there jumper settings on the drive? What for? Are any drives connected together or do they all have their own cable? Does it matter which cable I hook up when I reassemble? What are some of the things I know about this particular type of drive?
When removing wires or cables, what are the cables for? Which connectors are actually being used and what could the other ones be for? Are they following the pin-1 rule? Is pin-1 actually designated on the device the cable is attached to? Is it designated in more than one way?
Am I still taking proper ESD precautions and is my antistatic strap still hooked up?
Look at the motherboard again when there’s not so much in the way. Can you point out the CPU? How about the BIOS chip, the battery, cache RAM, keyboard connector? Is it an AT, Baby AT, or ATX format? Is there a math coprocessor? Where is it? Is the system memory supplied on SIMMs or DIMMs? How many pins on the memory module? How many memory slots are thee for each bank of system memory? Is the CPU installed in a ZIF socket or a friction socket? Are there any jumpers on the motherboard? Is there any information silk-screened on the board itself?

This is just an example of the questions you should be asking yourself. Try to come up with lots more. Even if you are not prepared to actually take your computer apart at this time, just take the cover off and ask yourself these questions as you visualize the various steps involved. Remember, not all questions can be answered by a single resource. Look in your notes, check out your manuals and resource material, ask questions.

ESD
Read the section on Electrostatic Discharge and always take ESD precautions. Remember, if you can feel a static shock its probably close to 3000 volts. Some ICs can be affected by as little as 30 volts.
Always use an antistatic wrist strap.
Keep a supply of antistatic bags to place components in as they are removed.
Leaving the computer plugged in is a recommended procedure. However, make sure it’s switched off and remember that the cable going to the remote switch on the front of the case carries AC current at house voltage. Also, ATX motherboards have power to them all the time, even when the switch is off. Before beginning to remove a power supply or an ATX motherboard, always make sure your computer is unplugged.

Before Beginning
You want to make sure you have what you need. Your wrist strap is attached to the computer, you don’t want to have to run to the other side of the room or to another room to get something. Forget about the strap and your computer may follow you.
Have a pen and paper ready. Documentation is real important. After you’ve changed a few jumpers or removed or replaced a few cables and cards, you probably will have to put some back the way they were. If you have documentation, putting things back together can be a simple reverse process. This is true of software troubleshooting as well.
Make sure you have the tools you need and they’re all close by and handy.
Be sure to have a container to keep the screws in so you have them when you want to put things back together.
Make sure you have the resource material, drivers or software that you may need.
If possible, enter the CMOS setup and record the information available. At least record the floppy and hard drive configuration and any settings that may be different from the default. You want to be careful not to remove the battery and lose these settings, but stuff happens.
Disassembly is major surgery, do a full backup of the system. Programs that you have the original disks for can always be replaced, but any upgrades for those programs and any programs that have been downloaded from the Internet may or may not still be available. Bookmarks, e-mail addresses, phone and fax numbers, dial-up connections, DNS settings and networking protocols can be a real pain to replace. Even the best technicians cannot guarantee your data, so back it up. Also, in Windows9x, all the IRQ, I/O addresses, and DMA settings can be found (and printed) from the Device Manager in Control Panel. In Windows98 check out Start/Programs/Accessories/System Tools/System Information.
Close all programs, shut down Windows, and turn off your computer. Then remove the cables from the back of the case.
One other thing: you have to use a little common sense. Don’t necessarily follow this information to the letter, it’s only meant to be a guide. If you think it would be easier to remove some expansion cards before removing the drive bay, then do it. If you can better access the data cables after the drive is out, then do it that way. If it would be easier to disconnect the power cables and remove the power supply before accessing DIMMs or SIMMs …..
I think you get the point. Removing the Cover
The standard way of removing tower cases used to be to undo 4-6 screws on the back of the case, slide the cover back about an inch and lift it off. Manufacturers are beginning to come up with trickier and more intricate methods of assembling these cases all the time. If there is no manual, then a little time taken for careful inspection may be in order. Here are some things to remember:
Don’t Force Anything. If it has to be forced, it will probably break. If there are no screws on the back of the case for the cover, check the plastic faceplate on the front. Some pry off to reveal screws or release levers (remember, careful inspection). If everything on the front has its own bezel around it (including the LEDs) then maybe the plastic front pops off (or maybe the case slides off the front).
If you notice a separation between the sides and the top, then they must come off separately. My favorite ATX case allows you to remove two screws from the back, then slide the side panel to the rear an inch and remove it. The other side removes the same way. It’s a good, solid, well built case.
Make sure any screws removed are for the cover. You don’t want to unscrew the power supply by accident and have it fall inside your computer. That’s a bad thing.
After the case is removed, place it in a safe place, where it won’t get knocked of a table, kicked or stepped on and bent.

Removing Adapter Cards
Again, documentation is very important. Yes, that 16-bit ISA card will probably work in any 16-bit ISA slot, but there may be a reason it’s in that particular one. Document the type of card and which slot it comes from.
Check the card for any cables or wires that might be attached and decide if it would be easier to remove them before or after you remove the card.
Undo the screw that holds the card in place.
Grab the card by its edges, front and back, and gently rock it lengthwise to release it. Do not wiggle it side to side as you can break the card, the slot, or the solder. Sometimes it helps to grasp the inside corner of the card with one hand and place a finger from the other hand under the associated port out the back of the computer to pry up the one end of the card.
Once the card is removed, you may want to record any jumper settings you see, just in case one is accidentally dislodged. Try to store the card in an antistatic bag. If you don’t plan on replacing the card then a cover should be installed over the slot opening.

Removing Drives
Removing drives is not that difficult. They usually have a power connector and a data cable attached from the device to a controller card or a connector on the motherboard. CD-ROMs may have an analog cable connected to the sound card.
The power will be attached using one of two connectors, a large Molex connector or a smaller Berg connector for the floppy drive. The Molex connector may need to be wiggled slightly from side to side while applying gentle pressure outwards. The Berg connector may just pull straight out or it may have a small tab that has to be lifted with a tiny flat screwdriver.
The data cables need to be documented. Remember the pin one rule. Know where each one goes before you pull it out and record its orientation (which side is the stripe on, where is pin 1?). Pull data cables gently and carefully. In other words, don’t yank them off, and pull level and in the direction of the pins.
Now you need to do a little more inspection, can the entire drive bay be removed? Does that particular drive come out the back of the bay or does it slide out the front before the bay is removed. If a bay is removable, you may have to remove some screws or unclip a lever then slide the bay back and off. If the bay is not removable, there should be access ports on the other side of the case that allow for access to those screws (there should be, I’ve seen some that you just about have to remove the motherboard to access these screws). Now you can remove the screws and slide the drive out the back of the bay. If the drive slides out the front of the case, then remove the screws and gently slide it forward. Removing the Memory Modules
Memory modules are one of the chips that can be damaged by as little as 30 volts. Be careful of ESD and handle them only by the edges. SIMMs and DIMMs are removed differently:
SIMM - gently push back the metal tabs holding the SIMM in the socket. Tilt the SIMM away from the tabs to about a 45% angle. It should now lift out. Put each SIMM in its own protective bag.
DIMM- There are plastic tabs on the end of the DIMM socket. Push the tabs down and away from the socket. The DIMM should lift slightly. Now you can grab it by the edges and place it in a separate antistatic bag.

Removing the Power Supply
Make sure it’s unplugged.
All power connectors should be removed, including the connection to the motherboard and any auxiliary fans. Watch the little plastic tabs on ATX connectors (you’ld rather not break them). AT power supplies have a two piece power connector that may be labeled P-8 and P-9. Make note of the orientation. The black wires should be in the middle, black to black.
Remove the connection to the remote power switch at the front of the case. Orientation of the colored wires at this switch is critical. If you remove them, make sure you document well, and during re-assembly plug the computer into a fused surge protector before turning it on (this could save your motherboard and components from melting if you’ve reconnected improperly). If you’re putting the same power supply back, it’s better to remove the entire switch and leave the connectors entact. The remote switch on an ATX form factor attaches to the motherboard.
Remove the four screws at the back of the case and gently slide the power supply out of the case. While removing these screws, hold onto the power supply. You don’t want it falling into the case.

Removing the Motherboard
Document and remove all wire attachments to the motherboard. (Some of these have Pin 1 designations also.)
Most cases have a removable panel that the motherboard is attached to. By removing a couple of screws the panel can be taken off and you can gain much better access to the motherboard. Again, a little investigation can save a lot of trouble.
There is usually 2 or 3 screws holding down newer motherboards. Make sure you’ve got the right ones and remove them.
Motherboards sit on plastic or brass standoffs that keep the traces and solder from touching the metal case and grounding out. Once the screws are removed you can lift the motherboard out. In other cases, the motherboard has to be slid horizontally towards the bottom of the case to unclip the plastic standoffs and then lifted out.
Place the motherboard in an antistatic bagReassembling the Computer

Same Way, Only Backwards
When it comes time to put a computer back together, it’s usually just a matter of reversing the order in which you took it apart. Again, you’re going to visualize each step because there may be an easier way. Is it easier to install the motherboard or the power supply first? Are the RAM DIMMs (or SIMMs) easier to access before, or after the power supply is in. If the motherboard pops out the back on a tray, then install the CPU and the RAM before replacing the tray. If you install the power supply first, then you may be able to clip the power connectors on as you install the motherboard and tray.

Tools
When putting the computer back together (or disassembling it for that matter), there are some basic tools that you’ll find handy. Of course, you’ll need your ESD protection equipment and a phillips screwdriver (keep a flat-head screwdriver nearby, too. A small flashlight and a magnifying glass may come in handy, as well as needle nose pliers. A useful device for any kind of computer work is a small srewdriver with a phillips head on one end and a flat-head on the other (I have no idea what the proper name is for the tool). Once again, you’re not in a race. A good carpenter measures twice, and cuts once. When working on computers you want to double-check everything you install or connect. Before you start, make sure you have taken all your ESD precautions. As you continue, make a conscious effort to remain aware of these precautions.

The Power Supply
A fairly basic installation, just lineup the holes and screw it on. Don’t plug it in yet. Remember, the cable going to the remote switch on the front of the case carries 110 volts AC. If you took the wires off the switch, make sure you connect them just as they were before (I hope you documented). A wrong connection here can burn up your PC. After your power supply is installed, do not plug it in, you may not be able to tell if the switch is on or off and you don’t want to turn the power supply on without a load.

The RAM
DIP memory modules are the hardest to install. Luckily, it’s not done much anymore. SIMMs are inserted at about a 45 degree angle then stoand up until they clip into place. If they don’t clip in properly, maybe you have them in backwards. They’ll usually have a key cut into one side. DIMMs are keyed on the edge connector side, they can only be inserted one way. Once they are lined up, push them down until the locking tabs on the side come up. You may have to support the motherboard from underneath if it looks as though its going to flex too much. COAST modules are also keyed on the bottom and insert much like an adapter card (Coast On A STick memory is cache SRAM).

The CPU
Luckily, CPU sockets aren’t friction fit anymore. If you have a PGA Central Processor (Pentium MMX or Celeron, Cyrix or AMD), it will fit into a ZIFF (zero insertion force) socket. Pin#1 on the chip has to be lined up with pin#1 on the socket. This can be indicated on the socket with an arrow, a #1 silk-screened on the board, or a flattened corner. Usually the CPU will indicate pin#1 with a flattened corner (and, or a dot on top, and, or an arrow on the bottom center of the chip). Unclip and lift the handle, insert the chip, lower the handle and clip it in. If it’s a Pentium II or a Pentium III, it will fit into a Slot 1 socket. These are rectangular in shape and have 242 pins in two rows. They’re keyed, and the cartridge should only fit in one way. Check any documentation that came with the motherboard or CPU, and refer to your notes.

The Motherboard
Most PC cases will allow you to remove the metal tray that the motherboard attaches to by removing 2 or more screws. If you didn’t do that during disassembly then you should familiarize yourself with it now. The plastic standoffs on the motherboard are to keep the solder-side of the board from touching the metal case and shorting out. Usually, it’s better to install the RAM and CPU first to avoid the possibility of flexing the board and cracking solder connections or traces. Orient the motherboard properly and either clip in, or slide in the standoffs until the mounting screw holes line up. Insert the screws that hold the board in place. The screws need to be snug, but do not twist them into the motherboard. You may be able to connect the power to the system board as you install the tray. A power supply with a baby-AT form factor will have two motherboard connectors (P8 and P9). These connectors are keyed but can be reversed. Make sure the black wires on the two connectors are beside each other. Clip the keyed edge in at an angle, then straighten the connector up and slide it on. ATX power connectors slide in until the tab clicks. Once the motherboard and tray are secured in place, you can re-install the wires for the front of the case (refer to your documentation).

At this point, you can install the video card. Do a final check on everything installed. Re-check all installations and connections, attach and plug in the monitor. Turn the computer on. Watch for lights on the front panel. How far does the BIOS POST routine get? Are there any error messages? Is this expected?

One thing that I don’t like to do is to completely re-assemble a computer and then just turn it on. If it doesn’t work at that point, then you have to tear it all apart again to find the problem. Once you’ve installed the power supply, motherboard, CPU and RAM, install the video card, hook up the keyboard and cables and start your computer. Of course, there’s no drives installed and some expansion cards are missing, so you’re going to get errors.